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Hanoi - 36 guilds |
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Hanoi ranks
among the world's most attractive and interesting cities. Originally
named Thang Long The most obvious reminders of the past in Hanoi are written in the vestiges of precolonial and colonial buildings -- low facades tucked beneath towers of concrete, especially in the city's Old Quarter. But even these centuries-old structures are recent, considering the rich history here that dates back thousands of years. Hanoi has a reputation, doubtless accrued from the Vietnam War years, as a dour northern political outpost. The city is certainly smaller, slower, and far less developed than chaotic Saigon, but Hanoi's 6 million residents still seem to be in constant motion -- an endless stream of motorbike and bicycle traffic. You'll see some vestiges of Soviet-influenced concrete monolith architecture here, along with plenty of beautiful, quiet streets and tranquil neighborhoods to explore. The city's placid air gives it a gracious, almost regal flavor. Hanoi is dotted with dozens of lakes -- small and large -- around which you can usually find a cafe, a pagoda or two, and absorbing vignettes of street life. Hoan Kiem lake: Lake of the Legendary Turtle and the Returned Sword
Ngoc Son Temple: Founded in 18th century, Ngoc Son temple, also known as the Pen and Brush Temple, is on a tiny island in the Hoan Kiem lake and is reached via the red-painted, wooden, Huc (Rising Sun) Bridge. We will tell you more about its history and its dedications once we are inside. Thap Rua (the Turtle tower) is the small stupa that was built in 1886 by an obscure Mandarin official. The temple was at first despised and involved in a scandal in which the official tried to have his father's bones laid to rest at the pagoda base. But over time, tiny Thap Rua, which sits on a small island at the very center of the pond, has become something of the city's Leaning Tower of Pisa, Statue of Liberty, and Eiffel Tower all rolled into one. Just two tiers of window galleries crowned by a short tapered roof, the temple commands great respect despite its recent construction, and it's a popular focal point for swooning lovers at lakeside in Hanoi's "Central Park" -- the lungs of the city. The turtles that can be seen basking at the temple's base are said to be up to 500 years old and the very species that stole the sword and founded the fair city. Hanoians love their stupa of peace; in fact, recent initiatives to have the aging pagoda painted and restored -- the small stupa is covered in moss and is overgrown with weeds -- were met with staunch disapproval from Hanoi citizens. And so it is as it always was. The Old Quarter Hanoi would not be Hanoi without its Old Quarter, a maze of streets dating back to the 13th century, its present-day chaos just a different version of the old chaos, when specialized trade guilds were responsible for each street. The quarter is exhausting and crowded; you'll be jostled by passing motorbikes, cyclos, and hawkers with shoulder-poles hanging pendulous burdens of local produce. The quarter is one of those places in the world that grows on you the more you experience it. Said to resemble a tree sprouting from the cool waters of Hoan Kiem Lake, the streets are like chaotic branches and tendrils as they fan out in jagged patterns across the area north of Hanoi's famed lake. Limited on one side by the Red River and on the other by the once-great Hanoi Citadel, whose walls are still standing in some areas, the Old Quarter is, as the name denotes, the oldest area of the town and has long been an important economic center. In its earliest inceptions, the Old Quarter was accessed by a series of canals on its northeast edge that lead to regional waterways. The western end of the quarter was developed in the early 19th century when the completion of the Hanoi Citadel left open areas that were settled by outlying villages and tradespeople. The quarter hosts the city's largest market, Dong Xuan, and welcomes the bulk of foreign visitors to the city with its maze of streets, multitude of services, and great hotel and restaurant "finds." Getting lost in the maze is one of the biggest joys of Hanoi. Keep an eye out for the classic Old Quarter tube house, so named because they are just that: a long, narrow tube of space that is subdivided into sections that served the family's every need. Why so narrow? And, in fact, why do Vietnamese still build so narrow and high today? Properties were taxed on the basis of their street frontage, and real estate has always been expensive in this bustling quarter (real estate prices in Hanoi rival any city in the West these days). Tube houses are divided into sections. The front is the business office, where any goods are displayed and where business is conducted. In a succession of courtyards and interior spaces, some two stories, a tube house has areas set asside for gardening, for servants, and, at the back, private family quarters with the kitchen and the loo, which was traditionally nothing more than a large latrine pot that fit into a nook and had to be emptied regularly. You can spot traditional homes by their low tile roofs parallel to the street.
European buildings of the French are more elaborate, usually two-story structures, with architectural flourishes like overhanging bay windows and a high sloping roof, some of the mansard variety. The more time you spend in the Old Quarter, the more adept you get at finding the old among the new. In fact, many shops with the most modern, neon-lit storefronts on the first floor are in fact old colonials, so be sure to keep an eye on the roofline to spot some antique gems among the clutter. The Old Quarter evolved from workshop villages organized by trades, or guilds, and even today, streets are dedicated to a product or trade. Some streets still offer the services of old, for example Hang Thiec Street, or Tinsmith Street, is still the place to buy tin receptacles and for sheet-metal work, but others have changed: Hang Vai, or Cloth Street, is now home to the bamboo trade, and many old streets support new trades. You won't find anything named "Motorcycle Seat Repair Street" or "Cheap Plastic Toys Imported from China Street" but they do exist. It's a fascinating slice of centuries-old life in Hanoi, including markets that are so crowded that the streets themselves narrow to a few feet. Hanoi's Old Quarter is also where the seeds of Communist revolution were sewn -- starting in 1907 with the Tonkin Free School Movement, a program of study at a school in the Old Quarter, just north of Hoan Kiem Lake, focused on Vietnamese traditions instead of the de rigueur French curriculum. The Old Quarter school was closed down by French officials, but the patriotic zeal that founded it would never die and instead produced small workers' strikes throughout the 1920s, many of which brought bloodshed. Old Quarter trade guilds were fertile ground for the worker's revolution, spawning independent presses and, over time, Communist cells emerged that would unite during the August Revolution of 1945. The Old Quarter was in fact Vietnamese turf during violent skirmishes with the colonial French in their bid to control the upstart colony from 1945 until complete Vietnamese victory at Dien Bien Phu and French withdrawal. The following is a translation of just some of the streets and the trades that were practiced in the Old Quarter. Some of the streets below still sell or produce the same items, others have evolved to more modern goods, but the clumps-of-industry principle remains. Look for the following: Street Name Translations of Old Quarter Trades Hang Bac -- silver Hang Be -- rattan rafts Hang Bo -- baskets Hang Bong -- cotton Hang Buom -- sails
Temple of Literature and National University (Van Mieu-Quoc Tu Giam)
If Vietnam has a seat of learning, this is it. There are two entities
here: Van Mieu, a temple built in 1070 to worship Chinese
What exists today is a series of four courtyards that served as an entrance to the university. Architecturally, it is a fine example of classic Chinese with Vietnamese influences. Still present are 82 stone stelae -- stone diplomas, really -- erected between 1484 and 1780, bearing the names and birthplaces of 1,306 doctor laureates who managed to pass the university's rigorous examinations. Beyond the final building, known as the sanctuary, the real university began. Damaged in the French war, it is curently being restored.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, House and Museum The life, works and death of Ho Chi Minh, 1890 -1969, the founder of modern Vietnam, are commemorated at the imposing Mausoleum at Ba Dinh Square and at his nearby small house and Museum. These are important places of pilgrimage for many Vietnamese, who still come from far and wide to pay their respects to the “Father” and national hero of Vietnam. Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum In an imposing, somber, granite-and-concrete structure modeled on Lenin's tomb, Ho lies in state, embalmed and dressed in his favored khaki suit. He asked to be cremated, but his wish was not heeded. A respectful demeanor is required, and the dress code mandates no shorts or sleeveless shirts. Note that the mausoleum is usually closed in October and November, when Ho goes to Russia for body maintenance of an undisclosed nature. The museum might be closed during this period as well. Note that the mausoleum is only open in the mornings. Ho Chi Minh’s Museum: English-language explanations help to piece together the fragments of Ho's life and cause at this museum tribute, and there are personal items, photos, and documents detailing the rise of the nation's Communist revolution. The rhetoric is laid on a bit thick, but all in all it's an interesting and informative display. Completely unique to Vietnam are the conceptual displays symbolizing freedom, reunification, and social progress through flowers, fruit, and mirrors One Pillar Pagoda To the right of the Ho Chi Minh Museum is the unique One-Pillar Pagoda, a wooden structure built in 1049 that sits on stilts over a lake. A king of the Ly Dynasty, Ly Thai Thong King had it built after having a dream in which Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara, the goddess of mercy, presented him with a lotus flower. The existing pagoda is a miniature reproduction of the original, which was said to represent a lotus emerging from the water. It is certainly interesting, and a prayer here is said to bring fertility and good health. It's best to wear something full-length (skirt or trousers), not shorts. Museums
Hoa Lo Prison For sheer gruesome atmosphere alone, this ranks near the top of the must-see list. It was constructed by the French in 1896 mainly to house political prisoners, and the Vietnamese took it over in 1954. It was subsequently used to house prisoners of war. From 1964 to 1973, it was a major POW detention facility. U.S. Senator John McCain was a particularly famous inmate, as was Pete Peterson, the ambassador to Vietnam, and Lieutenant Everett Alvarez, officially the first American pilot to be shot down over Vietnam. Their stories are told from the Vietnamese perspective in photographs and writings grouped in one small room. To the west is the guillotine room, still with its original equipment, and the female and Vietnamese political prisoners' quarters. The courtyard linking the two has parts of original tunnels once used by a hundred intrepid Vietnamese revolutionaries to escape in 1945. Only part of the original complex is left; the rest of the original site was razed and is ironically occupied by a tall, gleaming office complex popular with foreign investors. Vietnam Ethnology Museum If you're interested in learning more about the 53 ethnic minorities populating Vietnam's hinterlands, make the jaunt out to this sprawling compound (go by cab). Vietnam's different ethnic groups, their history, and customs are explained in photos, videos, and displays of clothing and daily implements. Out back are a number of re-creations of the village homes, from a low Cham house to the towering peak of a thatched Banhar communal home. You come away with a good historical perspective on the many groups you meet in the far north and in parts of neighboring Laos and Thailand Vietnam National Museum of Fine Arts This very worthwhile arts museum features Vietnamese art of the 20th century, up to the 1970s or so. Much of the art is outstanding, although you won't really see any works of an innovative or controversial nature. Entire rooms are devoted to the Vietnamese style of lacquer and silk painting, woodblock, and folk art. Techniques are explained -- a nice touch. Interesting also are the modern works of wood statuary interspersed among the exhibits. Some are patriotic in nature, depicting daily life or events during the war or done in Soviet-influenced caricature with heavy-limbed peasants striking triumphant poses or depictions of the brotherhood of the army and the working class. The top floors are devoted to prehistoric artifacts and Buddhist sculptures, some of which are huge and impressive. Don't miss the famous 11th-century goddess of mercy (Kouan Yin), with her thousand arms and eyes, in the far-left room on the second floor. Best of all, the museum itself is in an old colonial, and, unless there's a tour group milling around, you can stroll around in relative serenity and rest on one of the many benches provided (no napping). The gift shop has some modern works of well-known artists for sale and will also sell works displayed in thematic exhibitions.
Around Hanoi Hanoi is a good base for longer explorations of the north and northeast. Halong Bay is by far the most popular day trip, or overnight trip, for visitors to Vietnam's capital. Below are the most convenient trips from Hanoi. Handicraft villages around Hanoi
Ninh Hiep, a traditional herbal medicine village. Meet a Vietnamese herbalist and learn about the special kinds of teas that improve your health and cure diseases. Cu Da village, where many kinds of noodle are made and traditional Vietnamese rice spirits are distilled, in the old way. Chuong, a conical-hat making village. Learn how local people make this most useful hat, which can be used as a basket, a fan, a tray, a bucket or for sitting on the ground. Dong Ky, a wood carving village. Watch local young people making amazing wood carvings and Mother of Pearl inlaid furniture. Van Phuc, a traditional silk-weaving village and whose fine and traditional silk cloth is very popular throughout Vietnam. Duyen Thai, the lacquer village, making wonderful works of art in traditional Vietnamese lacquer wares The Red River Delta is a very productive rice-growing region, and the riverside fields are lush with green. This is the cradle of Vietnamese culture, and through centuries it still remains unaffected by the world outside and modern developments: bamboo scenes, hill rice terrace, silent, simple life, natural and hospitable local farmers. Bac Ninh province in the north of Hanoi used to be the wealthiest province in Vietnam in the days when rice cultivation was the main profession of the country’s economy.
Duong Lam Ancient Village
has a history of about 1,200 years with many houses dating back up to
400 years. It is the only place in Vietnam where two kings came from:
Phung Hung (761-802) and Ngo Quyen (808-944), who were born and grew up
in the village, led the resistance to and had victories over China's
Sung and Southern Han troops to recover national independence.
Perfume Pagoda Just 60km (37 miles) south of Hanoi is this stunning area of limestone peaks surrounding a lowland waterway through the rice fields. Visitors in groups of three and four board low rowboats for a short river ride to the temple area. The river trip is a highlight, a relaxing ride where you can take it all in and snap photos to your heart's content, or even get a chance to try the funky forward stroke of the typical Vietnamese small boat. The best part about visiting the Perfume Pagoda is the hearty climb, some 30 minutes of scrambling up to the stadium-size mouth of the mountain's holy cave. The site is home to a number of important temples and shrines, and the area is worth a wander. Ninh Binh Ninh Binh is about 90 km south of Hanoi, located to the South of the northern Delta, between the Red and the Ma Rivers. Ninh Binh has become a major travel center in recent years with its dramatic scenery, historic intrigues, and pilgrimage sites. Tam Coc: Known as The Inland Ha Long Bay or, alternatively, as the Ha Long Bay in the rice paddies. Tam Coc boasts breathtaking scenery, features huge rock formations jutting out of rice paddies. Tam Coc is best explored by boat as there are a series of interlinking caves and rowing through these natural marvels is quite a thrill. Hoa Lu: Hoa Lu was a capital of the early Vietnamese Dinh Dynasty (10th century) and while little remains of the original citadel, the place is well worth a visit if you are itching to get out of Hanoi and witness real rural village life. It is set in beautiful surroundings next to Truong Yen village and has a very tranquil feel. Cuc Phuong National Park: is one of Vietnam’s most beautiful and important protected areas and easily accessible from Hanoi, only a 2 ½ hour journey by road. The ancient forest contains almost 2000 species of trees and amongst them lives some amazing and rare animals including the Clouded leopard, Delacour’s Langur, Owston’s Civet, Otters and Asian Black Bears!
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SISTERS TOURS VIETNAM - http://www.sisterstoursvietnam.com |
or "City of the Ascending Dragon," the city was first
the capital of Vietnam in A.D. 1010 and has had many names until its
current incarnation. The name Hanoi, in fact, means "bend in the river"
and denotes the city's strategic location along the vital waterway.
Historians liken the life-giving Red River -- its banks crowded with
green rice paddies and
farms -- to the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, a cradle of civilization.
Even when the nation's capital moved to Hue under the Nguyen dynasty in
1802, the city of Hanoi continued to flourish, especially after the
French took control in 1888 and modeled the city's architecture to their
tastes, lending an important aesthetic to the city's rich stylistic
heritage, even expanding the city and adding rail connections over the
Long Bien Bridge in 1902. In 1954, after the French departed, Hanoi was
declared Vietnam's capital once again. The city boasts more than 1,000
years of history, and that of the past few hundred years is marvelously
preserved.
philosopher
Confucius; and Quoc Tu Giam, literally "Temple of the King Who
Distinguished Literature," an elite institute established in 1076 to
teach the doctrines of Confucius and his disciples. It existed for more
than 700 years as a center for Confucian learning. Moreover, it is a
powerful symbol for the Vietnamese, having been established after the
country emerged from a period of Chinese colonialism that lasted from
179 B.C. to A.D. 938. It is a testament to the strong cultural heritage
of the Mandarins. As such, it stands for independence and a solidifying
of national culture and values.
Hanoi, as befits a city about to celebrate its millennium, but in fact
dating back some 4,000 and more years, has several museums of
distinction. Of particular interest is the History Museum, housed in a
unique French colonial building incorporating many aspects of
Indochinese architecture; the National Museum of Fine Arts, only a short
stroll from Van Mieu; the Army Museum located inside the Citadel and
recording the Vietnamese peoples’ long struggles against the French
colonists and, later, the first and second Indochina Wars. No visit to
Hanoi can be considered complete without a visit to the world-class
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology and its indoor and outdoors displays
dedicated to the 54 ethnic groups within Vietnam and acknowledged to be
one of the best of its type in the world.
They both
became kings. After they died, temples were erected to worship them.